Laguna Duff
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After an all day bus ride from Villa O’Higgins, I camped at Laguna Chigney before starting a hike into Cerro Castillo the next morning. I road walked from the campground to the trailhead at Las Horquetas Grandes. Unfortunately the weather was not cooperating, with occasional rain and an accompanying chilly wind. The trek went up a valley with a couple rivers and many cow pastures — boy I missed bovines from the CDT. Glaciers lay far off, along with gorgeous red mountains, but these were often hidden by low clouds and rain, so I could not enjoy them much.
With my zero preparation for this hike, the only map I had was the overview political map in my book. The textual descriptions were a bit hard to match to what I saw on the ground, but I just followed the 4WD road that I hoped led to the right spot. After a couple hours among cow pastures and forests I did reach the border of Reserva Nacional Cerro Castillo, paid my entrance fee, and convinced the ranger I knew what I was doing, despite not speaking the native tongue. A bit further up the valley I camped at Rio Turbio, a very nice spot, The rain had mostly subsided too, making my evening much more enjoyable.
After a late start I climbed up to the headwaters of Rio Turbio and finally Paso Peñon, which had great views of the surrounding mountains. In the next valley I could see glaciers clinging to the tops of mountain peaks, with numerous waterfalls cascading down the cliff sides. Despite the late start and a couple breaks I came upon the confluence of the branches of Estero del Bosque and Campamento El Bosque by mid afternoon. I took a break but was not about to sit around all day, and headed up the west branch of Estero del Bosque towards Laguna Cerro Castillo. This high mountain lake was beautiful, although unfortunately some clouds obscured the very tops of the surrounding peaks.
A climb over loose rocks provided expansive views of the valley below with Villa Cerro Castillo, before the final ascent to the very windy ridge top that crossed into into the Estero Parada valley. The towering peaks of Cerro Castillo and its glaciers were in the distance, although also partially blocked by clouds. I had to be very cautious going down the steep, loose rock in the high wind. Its gusts were very strong and could knock me off balance. Several times I had to stop and brace myself from being pushed around and wait out the worst of it. I eventually made it to the relative protection of tree line and continued descending until I finally reached a camping area. This spot did not seem like Campamento Neozelandés yet, but it contained picnic tables so I stayed there.
After another late start I eventually headed up the valley and after about an hour walking through forest I came across Campamento Neozelandés. Past here the trail rose above tree line with excellent views of Cerro Castillo and other mountain peaks. I continued the scramble over loose rocks to Laguna Duff, another beautiful glacial lake. I relaxed and enjoyed this lake before returning to Campamento Neozelandés by early afternoon. I spent some time here planning where to go next on my Patagonia trip, before hiking a few more kilometers down the valley through beautiful forest already in color change, and camped near the edge of the park.
Laguna Duff
The next morning I walked into Villa Cerro Castillo, grabbed some chow, and finagled a bus ride onward.
